The Diverse Israeli Table-Part 1- The Middle East

The Diverse Israeli Table-Part 1- The Middle East

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     THE DIVERSE ISRAELI TABLE
     VOL 1: | MIDDLE EAST | MAGHREB | MEDITERRANEAN | EASTERN EUROPE |
     VOL 2: | CULINARY POTPOURRI | HOLIDAYS | WINE | BREAD
     
         
    Part 1: The Middle East
     
       

    With a population based on immigrants from more than eighty nations, it should come as no surprise that Israel has not developed a cuisine uniquely its own. Consequently, the Israeli table, both at private homes and at the many restaurants throughout the country, is comfortably set with dishes from many different regions and peoples.

    Given Israel's geographical location, one influence on local cuisine has come from dishes that were brought by immigrants from countries close by: Syria, Lebanon, Iraq, Iran and Egypt.


    Syria - Leading Citizens and Leading Cuisine

    Syrian cuisine has elements in common with the cuisine of many Middle-Eastern nations, and so does not seem at all exotic to most Israelis. In addition, because Syria is a Moslem nation, where pork is never served and seafood rarely found, the Jews of Syria had little problem adapting this versatile cuisine to kashrut, the rules of dining to which observant Jews adhere.

    For several centuries, the Jews of Damascus played a major role in the mercantile system of the nation. Many of these families enjoyed a highly developed cuisine and set such sumptuous tables that one l9th century visitor reported their cookery "to be second only to that of France". That may have been a bit of an exaggeration, but the recipes for the following dinner will serve to demonstrate the honesty, simplicity and subtlety of this cuisine, now a regular part of dining in many Israeli homes and restaurants.


     
     

     

     

     

    Anchovy Stuffed Olives

    500 gr. large black olives
    125 gr. anchovy fillets
    3 Tbsp. olive oil
    1 Tbsp. white vinegar
    1/2 tsp. each tarragon and black pepper

     

    Pit the olives and fill each with an anchovy filet. Place the olives in a deep serving dish. Combine the oil, vinegar, tarragon and pepper, mixing well. Sprinkle the mixture over the stuffed olives. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 - 6 hours. Serve well chilled.


     
     

     

     

    Drying of garlic cloves, Acre
     

    Garlic Soup

    1 liter beef, chicken or vegetable stock
    4 slices stale French-style bread
    3 Tbsp. olive oil
    6 - 8 garlic cloves, unpeeled
    2 egg yolks
    2 egg whites, lightly beaten
    salt and pepper to taste
    chopped parsley, for garnish

     

    Brush the bread slices with the egg whites and toast in the oven until golden brown. Drop the garlic cloves into boiling water and let boil for 12 - 15 minutes. Drain the garlic, rinse under cold running water and peel. Mash the garlic and then beat together with the egg yolk until the mixture is thick.

    In a saucepan or small kettle bring the stock to the boil. Remove from the flame and stir in the garlic mixture. Cook, stirring regularly, until thickened (about 5 minutes) taking care not to let the soup boil. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle the soup with the parsley and serve with the bread slices.


    Gray Mullet in Wine and Paprika

    2 medium-sized gray mullet or
    other firm-fleshed salt-water fish, about 675 gr each
    1/2 cup each dry red and white wine
    2 medium onions, sliced
    1/4 cup butter
    juice of 2 lemons
    1/2 tsp. each hot and sweet paprika
    several sprigs of fresh tarragon, chopped finely or
    1/2 tsp. dried tarragon
    salt and pepper to taste
    parsley sprigs, sliced onion and lemon wedges for garnish

     

    Clean the fish and place them in a shallow baking dish. Pour over the white wine and 1/4 cup water and let stand for 5 - 6 minutes on each side.

    Melt 2 Tbsp. of the butter in a small skillet and saute the onion and hot paprika together until the onions are translucent.

    Transfer the fish to a well-greased baking dish and dot with the remaining butter. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, tarragon and lemon juice. Pour over the red wine and add the sauteed onions. Bake in a medium oven for 30 minutes.

    Immediately on removing from the oven, sprinkle the fish with the paprika. Place under a hot grill for several minutes, just until the skin begins to blacken. Serve hot garnished with parsley, lemon quarters and sliced onion.


    Candied Figs - Moratub Teen

    500 gr. dried figs, chopped coarsely
    125 gr. walnuts, chopped
    1 1/4 cup sugar
    1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg
    1/4 tsp. each ground cinnamon and ground ginger
    juice of 1 large lemon

     

    Put the figs and lemon juice in a heavy saucepan and barely cover with water. Let stand for 2 hours and then, on a low flame, heat gently. Stir occasionally until the figs are tender. Add the sugar, cinnamon and ginger and continue to cook on a low flame until the figs are glazed and the mixture has thickened to the consistency of jam.

    Remove from the heat and stir in the walnuts. Let cool before refrigerating. Serve cold with demi-tasse spoons.


    Sophisticated Cookery from Iran

    For more than five hundred years, Iran has boasted one of the most sophisticated cuisines of the Middle East. Herbs and spices are used lavishly but in remarkably gentle combinations, and meat and fruit are frequently cooked together in pleasing ways.

    There are ways, however, in which the Iranian kitchen differs from that one usually associates with the region as a whole.

    Rice and cracked wheat are the favored starch staples, and are served boiled, steamed or in pilaf with the addition of vegetables, fruits and nuts. Whole, ground or crushed nuts add an unusual but pleasant touch to many dishes. In addition, cardamom and cinnamon find their way into many recipes. To tie Iran even closer to the Far East, tea rather than coffee is the national drink. Apart from caviar, Iran's most famous culinary export, there were few problems in adapting the cookery of this Moslem country to the needs of the kosher kitchen. The recipes that follow will prepare a full dinner for 6.


     
     

     

     

     
     

    Stuffed Vine Leaves - Warak Enab

    1/2 kg. vine leaves (fresh or tinned)
    3/4 cup pitted prunes
    1/4 cup pitted cherries (may use tinned)
    1/4 cup seedless raisins
    1/4 kg. lean ground beef
    1/4 cup uncooked rice
    2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
    1 Tbsp. fresh mint leaves, chopped
    1/2 tsp. each salt, black pepper, turmeric
    1/2 cup olive oil
    2 lemons, thinly sliced with rind

     

    If using fresh grape leaves, soak in hot water for 5 - 6 minutes. If tinned leaves are used, soak 5 - 6 hours in cold water. In either case, squeeze dry gently between toweling.

    Soak the prunes in water for 3 hours. Remove from the water and chop coarsely. Coarsely chop the cherries and raisins.

    Combine all the ingredients (except the vine leaves, lemon and oil) and with the mixture fill the leaves, tucking in the edge while rolling. The finished rolled leaves should be about 2" (5cm.) in length.

    Cover the bottom of a shallow pan with half the lemon slices and arrange the stuffed leaves on top. Cover with another layer of lemon slices, and pour the oil and 2 cups of water over all. Cover and cook over a medium flame for 1 hour.

    Remove from the flame and discard the upper layer of lemon slices. With a slotted spoon remove the stuffed leaves from the liquid. If served hot, each rolled leaf may be served on one of the cooked lemon slices. If served cold, discard the lemon and chill the leaves well.


    Chicken with Chickpeas - Djej bil Humous

    1/4 kg. chickpeas
    6 cloves garlic, halved
    salt as required
    1 large or 2 medium chickens, about 2 kgs. in total
    1/2 tsp. each ground ginger and pepper
    pinch or two pulverized saffron
    1/2 tsp. turmeric
    3 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
    1 stick cinnamon per chicken, about 8cm. long
    1 medium onion, chopped finely
    2 tbsp. each olive oil and melted margarine, mixed together
    1 medium onion, sliced thinly
    3 Tbsp. raisins

     

    Sort through the chickpeas, cover with water and soak overnight. In a small bowl, make a paste using half the garlic cloves and 1 tbs. salt. With this mixture, rub the chicken inside and out. Let stand 10 - 15 minutes and then rinse the chicken under running water and pat dry. In another small bowl, combine the ginger, pepper and remaining garlic and grind to a paste. Add 2 Tbsp. of water and mix well. Rub the chicken inside and out with this mixture, cover and refrigerate overnight.

    Drain the chickpeas, rinse well and place in a saucepan. Pour over fresh water to cover, bring to the boil and reduce the flame. Cover and simmer until the chickpeas are tender (about 1 hour). Drain the chickpeas and pour over cold water to cover. By rubbing the peas lightly, remove and discard the skins.

    Transfer the chicken to a lightly greased casserole and pour over any liquids remaining in the bowl. Add the saffron, turmeric, parsley, cinnamon, chopped onion and olive oil-margarine mixture. Pour over 2 cups of water (or stock) and bring to the boil. Reduce the flame, cover and simmer for 1 hour, turning the chicken 4-5 times. Remove the chicken and set aside to keep warm.

    Add the sliced onion, cooked chickpeas and raisins to the casserole and cook until the onions are soft and the sauce has reduced to a thick gravy. Return the chicken to the sauce and heat through. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

    To serve, transfer the chicken to a preheated deep serving dish, spoon over the chickpeas and sauce and serve immediately.


     
     

     

     

     
    Date grove near Ein Harod
     

    Date and Orange Salad - Salata Letchini

    1 head lettuce
    2 Tbsp. each lemon juice, sugar and orange juice
    1 Tbsp. orange flower water (optional)
    pinch of salt, ground cinnamon to taste
    3 large navel oranges, peeled and separated into sections
    125 gr. dates, chopped
    50 gr. blanched almonds, toasted and chopped

     

    Separate the tender leaves of the lettuce and wash well. Drain, pat dry, shred and place in a salad bowl. Chill.

    Mix together the lemon juice, orange juice, orange flower water, sugar, salt and 1/2 tsp. of the cinnamon.

    To serve, pour most of the dressing over the lettuce and toss. Arrange the orange sections over the lettuce leaves and then top with the dates and almonds. Sprinkle over the remaining dressing and dust gently with cinnamon.


    The Iraqi-Jewish Pizza Connection

    Because the cooking habits of Iraqis were so strongly influenced by neighboring Turkey and Iran, Iraq joins Israel as one of the only Middle-Eastern nations to lack a unique cuisine. Like the Turks, Iraqis love to stuff vegetables and eat a great deal of rice, lamb and yogurt. Like Iranians, they enjoy cooking fruits together with beef and poultry.

    While there may not be a distinct style to Iraqi cookery, there are several dishes that have their roots there, and all have become well beloved parts of Israeli dining: Masgoof is an outdoor barbecue of skewered whole river fish; Pacha is a slowly cooked combination of sheep's head, stomach, feet and a variety of other meats in broth; and turshi, a mixture of pickled vegetables, is a popular side-dish.

    Historian Reay Tannehill reports that in the 18th century, the most famous chefs of Baghdad were Jews who had traveled in Europe. Upon their return, they introduced French and Italian influences to the diet of upper-class Iraqi families. Even today, one of the most popular dishes in Baghdad is lahma bi ajeen. Composed of circles of yeast bread topped with ground lamb that has been cooked in herbed tomato sauce, the dish was devised by a Jewish chef after he had visited Italy. Many young Iraqis prefer to call the dish by its popular name -"pizza". The following meal will serve 6.


    Dill Meatballs

    125 gr. cooked chickpeas
    3/4 tsp. salt
    1/2 tsp. each cardamom, pepper and dill seed
    2 Tbsp. oil (for frying)
    1/4 kg. ground beef
    1/4 kg. ground chicken
    2 cups chicken stock
    2 eggs

     

    Grind the chickpeas finely and combine with the salt, cardamom, pepper and dill seed, mixing well.

    In a skillet, heat 2 Tbsp. of oil and lightly brown the ground beef and chicken.

    Combine the meat, chickpea mixture and egg, mixing well by hand. Form into meatballs about 1" (2 1/2 cm) in diameter. In a saucepan, heat the chicken stock and cook the meatballs in the stock until done (about 45 minutes). Drain and serve hot.


     
     

     

     

     
    The Spice Market, Nazareth
     

    Spiced Fish Soup

    Note: If the fish suggested in this recipe are not available, substitute trout fillets and/or bass fillets.

    3 Tbsp. olive oil
    1/4 kg. onion, chopped coarsely
    2 cloves garlic, chopped
    1/4 kg. tomatoes, grated
    1/2 tsp. salt
    black pepper to taste
    1/2 kg. gray mullet fillets
    1/2 kg. heads of gray mullets
    1/4 kg. each whole small red mullets and sea bream, cleaned

     

    Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet, and saute the onions until well browned. Add the garlic, grated tomatoes and salt and saute for l5 minutes longer, stirring regularly. Add 4 cups of water to this mixture and bring to a boil.

    Place the fish in a large kettle and pour the boiling mixture over. Sprinkle again with salt and black pepper to taste and cook gently for 45 minutes, skimming occasionally. Correct the seasoning and strain before serving. Whatever fish pieces that remain whole may be served with the soup.


     
     

     

     

     

    Fruited Beef

    1/4 kg. dried prunes, pitted
    1/4 kg. dried apples
    1/4 kg. dried apricots
    1 kg. beef for stewing
    3 Tbsp. olive or corn oil
    1 Tbsp. each sugar and cinnamon
    1 tsp. black pepper
    1/2 tsp. salt
    75 ml. tomato puree
    4 cups boiled white rice, for serving

     

    In separate bowls, soak each of the dried fruits in water for 2 hours. Drain well. Cut the meat into cubes about 1" (2 1/2 cm.) square. In a heavy skillet, heat the oil and saute the meat until browned on all sides. Add the prunes and cook on a low flame, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Add the apples, apricots, seasonings and tomato puree. Stir well and cook uncovered another 10 minutes. Serve hot on the white rice. On each portion, distribute the fruits and ladle over an appropriate amount of sauce.


    Lentils with Spinach and Lemon

    1/4 kg. lentils, well washed
    1/4 cup olive oil
    1 large onion, sliced
    3 - 4 cloves garlic, chopped finely
    2 Tbs. fresh coriander, chopped
    300 gr. spinach leaves, well picked over and chopped
    2 medium potatoes, peeled and sliced
    1/4 cup lemon juice (or more, to taste)

     

    Place the lentils in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to the boil, cover and let cook for about 20 minutes.

    Heat the oil in a large casserole and brown the onion. Add the garlic and coriander, stir well and then add the spinach. Saute for 5-6 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the potatoes, lentils and enough of the lentil cooking liquor to cover. Season to taste with salt and pepper, bring to the boil, lower the flame and simmer until the mixture is thick and soupy (about 1 hour). Stir in the lemon juice. Serve hot or lukewarm.


    Mint Wafers

    2 cups sugar
    1/4 cup milk*
    1/4 cup maple or light corn syrup
    1/4 tsp. cream of tartar
    about 10 drops oil of peppermint

     

    combine the sugar, milk, syrup and cream of tartar in a large heavy pan and, over a low flame, heat until the sugar is dissolved, stirring constantly. Continue to cook and stir until the mixture comes to a boil.

    Remove from the flame, cover and let stand for 3 - 4 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook without stirring until the mixture is at 240 degrees Fahrenheit (115 Celsius) (check by using a kitchen thermometer). Remove from the flame and allow to cool for 10 minutes.

    Whip the mixture until creamy and then add the peppermint drops. Drop the mixture from a teaspoon onto aluminum foil to form small patties. Let cool and solidify before serving. Yields about 1/2 kg. of candies.

    *Note: If serving these wafers with a meat-based meal, substitute soya milk for the milk.


    Egypt: Pyramids and Pasta

    Everybody knows that the ancient Egyptians were superb mathematicians and engineers. This was the land in which geometry was born and where the pyramids were built. However, not nearly as many are aware of the enormous contribution to modern dining habits made by these same people.

    About 5,000 years ago, Egyptians bakers discovered the secret of leavening. Not too many years later, other cooks, probably in the area of Alexandria, invented the first ovens that were small enough to fit into the average home. The Egyptians also had the wisdom to realize that by combining olive oil, lemon juice and egg yolks you could produce the wonderful condiment known today as "mayonnaise". And, much to the dismay of people who love Marco Polo and all of the myths surrounding his trip to the Orient, it was the Egyptians who invented pasta.

    Although the Jews of Alexandria and Cairo did not make any major impact on the culinary styles of Egypt, they did adapt many dishes to the special requirements of kashrut and a host of Egyptian culinary treats have been comfortably absorbed into the dining habits of most Israelis. The following dinner, a blend of sophistication and simple but tasty fare, is designed for 4, and the meal will sit as comfortably on the table of Moslems, Christians or Jews.


    Bean Cakes - Ta'amia

    250 gr. pea beans, chickpeas or ful (fava) beans
    1 1/2 tsp. salt
    1 Tbsp. minced onion
    2 Tbsp. parsley, minced
    2 cloves garlic, minced
    1 Tbsp. flour
    1 egg, beaten lightly
    olive or corn oil for frying

     

    Soak the beans overnight in cold water. Drain, cover with cold water, add the salt and simmer until the beans are cooked but still firm (about 45 minutes). Drain, reserving the water.

    Mix the beans together with the onion, parsley and garlic and puree through a strainer, adding just enough of the reserved water to prevent sticking. Blend the flour together with the egg and mix into the beans. In a heavy skillet, heat about 1" (2 1/2 cm) of the oil and drop the mixture in by heaping tablespoonfuls. Fry, turning occasionally until both sides are golden and crusty. Drain on paper toweling and serve hot. To serve as an appetizer, place on plates, surrounded with tomato slices and onion rings and garnished with lemon wedges. May also be served as a snack or for lunch with tomato slices and shredded lettuce inside a pita bread.


    Pecan Soup

    1 cup pecans, chopped finely
    1 cup milk
    1/2 cup breadcrumbs
    2 Tbsp. flour
    2 Tbsp. butter
    3 cups vegetable stock, ideally home-made
    1/4 tsp. mace
    1/3 cup light cream
    1/4 cup finely chopped parsley
    salt and pepper to taste

     

    Put the pecans, milk, breadcrumbs and flour in a saucepan and bring just to the point of boiling, stirring constantly. Remove immediately from the flame. In a large saucepan, melt the butter and stir in the milk mixture. Slowly blend in the stock and mace. Bring to a boil and immediately lower the flame and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Stir in the cream, salt and pepper, pour into individual serving bowls and garnish each with parsley. Serve hot.


     
     

     

     

    Mahane Yehuda Market, Jerusalem
     

    Sea Bass with Garlic Butter

    4 sea bass, about 500 gr. each
    1/2 cup butter
    2 lemons, quartered
    1 lemon, sliced
    10 cloves garlic, chopped finely
    salt and pepper to taste
    oil for frying

     

    Clean the fish and dry well on paper toweling. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

    In a heavy skillet, heat oil at least 1" (2 1/2 cm) deep and fry each fish until nearly done. Remove the fish from the oil and transfer to a baking dish.

    In a separate skillet, melt the butter over a low flame. Add the garlic cloves and stir continuously until the butter begins to brown. Pour the garlic butter over the fish and on each fish place 2 lemon slices. Cover and put in a hot oven until the fish flakes easily to the touch of a fork (about 6-8 minutes). Serve hot with the lemon quarters.


    Baked Fennel in White Sauce

    For the Fennel:
    4 large fennel bulbs
    1/4 cup butter, melted
    1 tsp. each pepper and dill seed
    1/2 tsp. salt

    For the Sauce:
    3 Tbsp. butter
    about 2 Tbsp. flour
    1 1/2cups milk
    l small onion, studded with 3 whole cloves
    1/2 small bay leaf
    salt and pepper as necessary

     

    Clean the fennel bulbs, removing the stems, stalks and ferns. Cook in 2 liters of boiling water with the salt, pepper, dill seed and butter until the fennel is tender.

    While the fennel is cooking, prepare the sauce. Melt the butter in a saucepan over a low flame. Add and blend in the flour, cooking gently and stirring constantly for 3-5 minutes. Slowly add the milk while continuing to stir. Add the onion and bay leaf and continue to cook and stir the sauce (ideally with a whisk) until thick and smooth. Transfer the sauce to a medium oven for 20 minutes. Before using, strain the sauce and correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

    Drain the fennel and cut into 1" (2 1/2 cm) pieces. Place these in a casserole and spoon over the butter. Transfer to the oven until the fennel begins to brown, remove from the oven and spoon over the sauce. Serve hot.


    Palace Bread - Esh es Seraya

    225 gr. honey
    125 gr. each sugar and butter
    1 1/2 cup fresh white breadcrumbs
    whipped cream for serving

     

    Heat the honey together with the sugar and butter in a saucepan until the mixture thickens. Add the breadcrumbs and continue cooking, stirring regularly, until the mixture is even throughout. Turn out onto a moistened pie tin and spread so that the mixture is evenly thick throughout. Let cool. To serve, cut into triangular portions and top each portion with whipped cream.

     
     
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